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to Hoa Lu Once the centre of both the Dinh and Early Le dynasties, little
of Hoa Lu now remains except for two temples, renovated several times throughout
the centuries. These are the temples of the Dinh emperors, Dinh Tien Hoang and
Le Hoan. Of the two, it is the 11th century temple of Dinh Tien Hoang that is
of most interest. The gardens are littered with the crude statues of animals that
were believed to be divine, while the rear room of the temple is dominated by
the imposing statue of the first Dinh emperor - Dinh Bo Linh. 
Bo
Linh ruled over an unruly kingdom, choosing Hoa Lu as his capital because the
valley in which it sits could be easily defended. However, defending the capital
and bringing order to the insubordinate Hong River Plains, turned out to be entirely
different problems. Frustrated by continuing banditry, the surly Bo Linh installed
a large kettle and a caged tiger in his palace courtyard, proclaiming that all
who broke the law would be "boiled and gnawed!" Disorder subdued, Bo Linh returned
to his Buddhist studies. Hoa Lu began its decline after Emperor Le Hoan
died in 1006. His replacement, Ly Cong Uan - a former temple orphan who had ascended
through the ranks of the palace guard to the position of commander - moved the
capital for his newly-founded Ly Dynasty to what is today Hanoi and the former
capital fell to marauders and bandits over the ensuing centuries. The Dinh
emperors are buried high up on Lang Ma mountain, their spirits looking out over
the empty plains where once their mighty capital stood. 
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